Not many climbers go from first session to international podium in three years, but Monty Merchie has.
Monty is a Leeds-based Paraclimber competing in the AL2 category, for athletes with a unilateral lower limb impairment. Just three years ago, he walked into a climbing gym for the first time and was hooked to the sport by the mix of physical training and technical problem solving, something that takes on a whole new dimension as an amputee.
Since then, his progress has been rapid. This summer he won the British Paraclimbing Championships, his first major title, and in September he travelled to Norway for his first international event, the Norwegian Paraclimbing Championships, where he took bronze!
We spoke to the GEKCO athlete to hear about his training, day job as a tree surgeon, and climbing in the Paralympics…
Monty, tell us about your training routine to go from complete novice to international medallist in just 3 years?
“I think the biggest thing has been consistency. I got hooked pretty quickly and have generally trained 3–5 times a week, mixing bouldering and routes with strength and finger training.
Being an amputee means there's also been plenty of trial and error with technique and movement - as well as my prosthetic itself. I'm currently developing my own prototype climbing foot, which I hope to bring to the wall soon. There's still a huge amount I want to improve!”
First British Champion, and now a Norwegian medallist. How does it feel?
“Pretty surreal, to be honest! Winning the British Championships was a massive moment, but Norway was particularly special as my first competition abroad.
I don't think I necessarily climbed my best, so coming away with bronze was really encouraging - especially as Magnus Midtbø reckoned our route was around 7b (and fell at the same point I did!). It was a great opportunity to compete alongside athletes from other countries and get a better idea of where I stand.
It's definitely made me hungry for more!”
You're also a tree surgeon. Do you think there's any crossover with competition climbing?
“Definitely! I'm climbing and working on ropes regularly, so being comfortable at height, trusting equipment and moving around in awkward positions all help. Though sometimes a full day working up a tree isn't exactly ideal preparation for an evening training session!
There's a bit of physical crossover too, although the two disciplines are very different - you definitely don't want to take a climbing fall on a static rope!”
Paraclimbing is set to make its Paralympic debut in 2028. Do you think this will change the sport, and if so how?
“I think it could be huge for paraclimbing. The Paralympics will introduce the sport to an entirely new audience, hopefully bringing more funding, sponsorship and opportunities for athletes, while encouraging more people with disabilities to give climbing a go.
There are some incredibly strong athletes across the classifications, and I think LA28 will be a brilliant opportunity to showcase just how competitive the sport is.”
Following this medal, what are your sights set on next?
“GB benchmarking in March is the immediate priority. I narrowly missed selection this year, so I'm determined to come back stronger and hopefully earn a place on the team.
Beyond that, I want to gain more international competition experience and keep pushing my climbing. With paraclimbing making its Paralympic debut at LA28, it's difficult not to have that somewhere in the back of my mind!
There's a long way to go, but three years ago I'd barely started climbing, so I'm quite interested to see where another couple of years can take me!”
On behalf of the GEKCO climbing community, we wish Monty the best of luck as he heads into winter training ahead of GB Benchmarking next year.
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